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Which Pots and Pans Should I
Use? |
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When
someone complains about your cooking, do you: A.)
hand him the spatula and tell him to do it
himself; B.) give up and get fast food for the
ingrates; C.) grit your teeth and bear it because
she’s your mother-in-law, after all; or D.) change
the pans you’re using … ?
Although these
are all acceptable answers, we’re recommending D.
It just might make a difference. (That burnt
chicken wasn’t your fault, right?) You see, not
all pots and pans are created equal. In fact, the
material they’re made out of can make or break
their performance. Some pans conduct heat poorly,
giving you uneven cooking. Some are reactive with
certain foods and add a funny taste. Whatever the
problem, you certainly don’t need pans that waste
the time you spend cooking by giving you
less-than-delightful results. So, read below to
see how your pans stack
up:
Copper Advantages: Excellent
conductor of
heat. Disadvantages: Tarnishes and
needs frequent polishing. Cannot be put in the
dishwasher. Comments: Best used as a
bottom coating for pans made from other materials
(such as stainless steel) to improve their
performance. NOT for you if you’re pressed for
time (because it requires polishing and
hand-washing). ALONE, copper is highly reactive
with many foods (especially acidic ones), so
copper pans are usually lined with tin or
stainless steel.
Stainless
Steel (steel combined with nickel and
chromium) Advantages: Resists
rusting, scratching and staining. Is attractive
and easy to clean. Does not react with
food. Disadvantages: ALONE, stainless
steel is a poor conductor of heat, often heating
unevenly and causing “hot
spots.” Comments: Better-performing,
high-quality stainless steel cookware either has
an aluminum disk or a layer of copper on the
bottom of the pan to assist with heat transfer.
Other pans have aluminum or copper sandwiched
between layers of stainless steel, either just on
the bottom or throughout the entire
pan.
Unanodized
Aluminum Advantages: Highly
responsive to and conductive of
heat. Lightweight.* Inexpensive. Disadvantages: Tends
to heat unevenly, so you can burn foods.* Can
dent or warp.* Prone to pitting or
staining.* Reactive with acidic, alkaline and
sulfurous foods (such as tomato-based dishes,
cabbage, salty foods, foods that contain wine or
fruit, etc.). Can discolor acidic foods or
egg-based foods. May release some metal
flavors, resulting in off colors or
flavors. May leave metal marks on glass-ceramic
cooktop. Comments: An inexpensive,
all-purpose material. Pans almost always have a
nonstick interior finish and often a
porcelain-enamel finish on the exterior.*
*
Not applicable to all.
Anodized
Aluminum Advantages: Nonreactive
with food. Very resistant to
scratching. Stick-resistant. Long-lasting. Disadvantages: Not
recommended for washing in an automatic
dishwasher. Comments: Many brands of
high-end cookware are made from anodized
aluminum.
Cast
Iron Advantages: Excellent
retainer of heat. Cooks evenly once it has
reached
temperature. Inexpensive. Disadvantages: Heats
and cools slowly. Heavy. Requires extra care
as it needs to be hand-washed and seasoned after
use. Comments: Excellent for
browning. Should not be used for deep-fat frying.
Becomes more naturally stick-resistant with use
and age. However, cast iron rusts if you are not
careful. You can’t wash cast iron in the
dishwasher and you shouldn’t soak it, but you can
put it in the oven.
Enameled Cast
Iron (or Steel) (See heating
characteristics of the base
material) Advantages: Naturally
stick-resistant and easy to clean. Enameled
surface is highly inert. Conducts heat slowly
and holds heat. Disadvantages: Tends
to nick or chip and wear
away. Comments: Good for stewing,
simmering long-cooking dishes and braising.
Available in
colors.
Glass Advantages: Highly
inert. Transparent so you can see food
cooking. Generally
dishwasher-safe. Disadvantages: Retains
heat well but conducts it poorly, so foods may be
cooked unevenly and slowly. Potentially
breakable. Not recommended for use on
glass-ceramic cooktops as they may cause
scratching.
More Ways To Choose Just
The Pan For The Job • Enameled or
nonstick surfaces or stainless steel are the most
inert (they won’t change the taste, smell or color
of the food) and so they are best for acidic foods
or items you’ll simmer/cook for a long time, such
as soups or stews.
• Regardless of the
material, the pan should have a smooth, flat
bottom (since heat is transferred from the cooktop
to the pan by conduction).
• Look for pans
that are “good conductors” and “heavy-gauge.”
They’ll be most responsive, heating up and cooling
down quickly. They also provide more even heat —
and they’ll hold more heat for better browning,
faster reducing and hotter
frying.
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